It's officially the holiday season, which means Christmas movie feature time here on Movie Mondays. First up is one of my fave's, 2003's Elf!
Christmas Boot Canister, by Libby Bailey
Materials:
1 8oz skein worsted weight acrylic yarn
Size 7 straight needles
1 empty container appropriate to the size of the boot top
1 tapestry needle
(optional) desired decorations and/or ribbons
Stitches used: stockinette and reverse stockinette
Note: make 13 5x5 squares (approximately)
Directions
Cast on 22 stitches (less if you want a smaller boot)
Row 1: (RS) K4, *P2, K4; repeat from * to the end of the row
R2: P4, *K2,P4; rep. from * to the end of the row
R3: repeat row1
R4: repeat row 2
R5: repeat row 1
R6: repeat row 2
R7: repeat row 2
R8: K4, *P2, K4; repeat from* to the end of the row
Repeat these 8 rows 3 more times (total of 4 sets), then repeat row 1 one more time. Bind off in the pattern. This edge will be your finished edge when assembling the squares to make the finished boot.
Joining the squares:
1. Using any stitch your are comfortable with (I used the blanket stitch), join 2 squares at the cast on edges. Be sure to match the pattern on the squares. The bound-off edges are at the top and the bottom of these pieces.
2. Join 1 square perpendicular to the 2 you have just joined. The bound-off edge is at the bottom. With 3 more squares, make a separate piece which is a mirror image of the 3-square piece you just made. Note: Be sure to match the patterns. You will now have two “L” shaped pieces.
3. Making a third piece, join the 7 remaining squared in a straight-line piece. Make sure that the bound-off edges are at the top of this string of squares and at the bottom of this string of squares.
4. With right sides facing inward, join the vertical string of squares to the 2 “L”-shaped pieces, one “L”-shaped piece on each side of the vertical string of squares. Be sure to match the pattern as you sew the pieces together. You should end up with a boot-shaped finished product.
5. The top of the boot should now have a complete finished edge.
6. If you like, lace ribbon(s) around the upper part of the boot .
7. Stuff the toe of the boot with polyfil to make it rounded and reasonable firm.
8. Place an empty canister into the top of the boot.
9. Fill the empty canister with Christmas candy, ornaments, candy canes or anything festive. (I used several different flavors of candy canes.)
Over the weekend, I caught-up on a few TV shows including one my favorites, Fringe (FOX). The current episode included a guest star who was wearing a great, crocheted scarf (see screen shots below)--one that inspired me to veer away from the usual Movie Monday format, to do a scarf round-up from NaturallyCaron.com. Check it, then hook it!
Felting and Finishing
Through the magic of agitation and the scaling nature of wool fibers, it's time to transform the large and loose knitting into a tough, tricked-out transporting dream.
1. Place the bag and inner tube in a pillowcase (to protect the washer from the globs of fiber that will shed from the piece). Use a rubber band to close it.
2. Fill the washing machine to its lowest level with hot or warm water, as checking the piece frequently will be necessary and also to prevent hand burns. Add the soap as the machine fills and set it to its heaviest agitation level.
3. Felting will begin suddenly, so keep an eye on the piece. Check the progress of the felting every 5 minutes. Wring out the excess water and stretch and pull the bag into the desired shape. When it's wet, the fabric is still malleable.
4. The bag will be ready when that stretchy stockinette turns into a firm slab of felt. Felt it until the stitch definition is barely discernible and the buttonholes tighten snugly around the inner tube.
5. When it's reached its final dimensions, rinse the bag to remove all of the soap and excess fiber. Roll it in between towels. Block your bag by stuffing it full of towels or stretching it over a plastic-bag-covered box to achieve the shape desired. Allow to dry completely, 1 to 2 days.
6. The bag is ready for the road. To adjust the length of the strap, use the bike messenger's friend and everyday office supply item: the large black metal paper clamp. To prevent a wayward pen or knitting needle from escaping through one of the buttonholes, secure such smaller items safely away in zippered pouches. Grab your laptop, a notebook and some knitting projects, throw the bag over your shoulder and hit the streets.
Visit Stephen at Hizknits.com!
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
Materials
1 ball Filatura Di Crosa Baby Kid Extra (245m/25g) #452 (pastel gray), or other sportweight yarn
4 or 5 double-pointed needles (dpn), US size 6 (4 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
tapestry needle.
Gauge: 24 stitches and 19 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in lace pattern worked in the round
Finished size: about 6" (15 cm) wrist circumference and 8" (20.5 cm) long.
Sizing note: Ribbing at wrist will stretch to about 8" (20.5 cm) circumference.
Lace Pattern (multiple of 6 sts):
Round 1: *K1, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 for pattern.
Cuff
Loosely co 72 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 dpn (24 sts on each needle) and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rep rounds 1 and 2 of lace patt (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 5-1/2" (14 cm) from co, ending with Round 2.
Note: Be careful that you do not accidentally drop any yo that occurs at the end of a needle or at the end of the rnd.
Decrease round: *K2tog; rep from * to end of rnd — 36 sts rem.
Next round: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. Cont in k2, p2 rib as established until ribbed section measures 2-1/2" (6.5 cm) and cuff measures about 8" (20.5 cm) from coO. Loosely bo all sts.
Finishing Cuffs
Weave in loose ends and block lightly, if desired, as follows:
Generously spritz the inside and outside of the lace portion with a fine mist. Lay the cuff on the ironing board or a padded surface with the scalloped edges of both layers aligned. Pin cast-off edge to about 7" (18 cm) wide, then pin out each scallop point, pulling gently downward to extend the points and to expand and even out the lace part. When the scallop points have been pinned, coax the valley between pairs of points upward toward the ribbing to exaggerate the zigzag lower edge, and pin the valleys in place. Allow the upper section of the lace cuff to narrow gradually to the width of the ribbing. Allow to air-dry completely before removing the pins.
RESOURCES :
Lace Style
By Pam Allen and Ann Budd
April 2007, Interweave Press
Website: www.interweave.com
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
Family Affair Knit Quilt, by Betsey McCall
Materials:
Crystal Palace "Iceland" Yarn (100g balls):
3 balls Fuschia (#1219)
3 balls Strawberry Pink (#4891)
10 balls Candy Combo (#7254)
1 ball Red Cerise (#0008)
knitting needles - U.S. size 10.5 (10") or size needed to obtain gauge of 3 sts = 1" in garter st
crochet hook, size K 10-1/2
tapestry needle
Squares Overview
Make a total of 36, 8" squares. Create 12 square using the garter stitch and 4 squares using each of the additional stitches listed below.
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Cast on 24 sts using size 10-3/4 needles in Candy Combo (#7254) yarn. K every stitch until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
Make 12 alike.
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Cast on 24sts using size 10-3/4 needles in Pumpkin (#0022) yarn.
Row 1: K2, * K1 but keep stitch on left needle, wyif wrap yarn around right thumb, wyib K original stitch again, this time letting it off the left needle. Pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the 1st stitch, as though binding off. K1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat row 1 until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
For variation, you can vary the size of the loop by holding your thumb farther away from the needle or wrapping the yarn around the loop more than once.
Make 4 alike.
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Cast on 24 sts using size 10-3/4 needles in Pumpkin yarn (#0022).
Row 1: K1, *yo, ssk (slip 1, K1, pass slipped st over). Repeat from * to the end of the row. End K1.
Repeat this row until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
Make 4 alike.
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Cast on 28 sts using size 10 ½ needles in 4891 Strawberry Pink.
Rows 1 and 2: K.
Rows 3 and 4: K1, P1
Repeat these 4 rows until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
Make 4 alike.
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Cast on 28 sts using size 10 ½ needles in Strawberry Pink 4891.
Rows 1 – 5: K7, P7, K7, P7.
Rows 6 – 10: P7, K7, P7, K7.
Repeat these 10 rows 3 times or until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
Make 4 alike.
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Cast on 23 sts using size 10 ½ needles in main color Fuschia (#1219).
Join contrasting color Candy Combo (#7254).
Row 1: Using contrasting color, K.
Row 2: Using contrasting color, P.
Rows 3 and 5: Using main color, K.
Rows 4 and 6: Using main color, P.
Row 7: Using contrasting color, K1, *drop next st down to most recent row in contrast, insert needle in loop of st and under the four threads of the main color and knit the st, K3. Repeat from * to the end of the row. End K1.
Row 8: Using contrasting color, P.
Rows 9 and 11: Using main color, K.
Rows 10 and 12: Using main color, P.
Row 13: Using contrasting color, K3, then repeat from * as in Row 7.
Row 14: Using contrasting color, P.
Repeat rows 3 to 14 until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
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Cast on 30 sts using size 10 ½ needles in Fuschia (#1219).
Row 1: P.
Row 2: K1, * (K1, P1, K1) into next st. Repeat from * to the end of the row. End K1. Repeat until piece measures 8". Bind off loosely.
Make 4 alike.
Finishing
Arrange the squares in a pleasing pattern. There will be 6 rows of squares each. Use a blunt tapestry needle to sew up all squares. Sew 6 squares of each row together first then sew six rows together to complete the blanket. Work the perimeter of the finished afghan in single crochet to finish the edges.
RESOURCES :
Crystal Palace Yarns
Wholesale only; list of distributors on their Website.
Website: www.crystalpalaceyarns.com or www.straw.com
Itty Bitty Mitts, by Vickie Howell
Materials
Leftover scraps of Muench/GGH Goa (50% cotton, 50% xcrylic; 50g, 55 yards per skein) in the following colors: 1 skein 10 Hot Pink (MC), 1 skein 35 Barbie Pink (CC), 1 skein 03 White (CC1)
U.S. size 9 needles
Tapestry needle
Note: Remember that many yarns are seasonal and could be discontinued. If the specific yarn called for is not available, purchase a substitution yarn that comes closest to the specified gauge in your pattern. And be sure to make that all-important swatch to see whether the yarn works for your particular pattern.
Finished size: 2 1/4" x 3 1/2"
Gauge: 3.75 stitches per inch
(Make 2)
With MC, CO 15 sts. Work in seed stitch (K1, P1 every row) for 5 rows.
Switch to CC and work in stockinette for 4 rows.
Switch to CC1 and work in stockinette for 4 rows.
Switch to MC and work last 5 rows as follows:
Row 1: *K2tog., K1* to end.
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K2tog. to end.
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K2tog. twice, K1.
Draw string through remaining live stitches and tie off.
Finishing
Weave in ends and sew up back seam.
Mobius Scarf, by Cat Bordhi
Materials
Fleece Artist 4-ply cashmere (100% cashmere, 50 g/ 170 m), 1 skein
47" circular needles, U.S. size 10 (6 mm) (or size needed to obtain gauge)
tapestry needle
stitch marker
Gauge: 12 sts = 4" (10 cm)
Finished size: 27" circumference, 10" width
Abbreviations:
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
MCO Mobius cast-on
p purl
p1f&b purl once into the front and once into the back of the same stitch (an increase)
yo yarn over
Mobius cast-on:
MCO 80 sts as follows:
Place a slipknot on the middle of the 47" needle's cable, with the needle ends hanging down like an upside-down U. With your right hand, take the left needle and circle it counterclockwise, placing it in front of and against the slipknot (which is in the middle of the cable). The right side of the upside-down U remains hanging down and is ignored during the Mobius Cast-On (MCO) process.
Your right hand holds the needle (which is pointing to the left) and the slipknot against the cable, so the slipknot cannot slip around. Tension the yarn and cable in your left hand by using your index finger to hold the yarn up high and your remaining three fingers and thumb to firmly grasp the cable and yarn. You should see a triangle: its base is the cable, the yarn forms the right side and your left hand is the left side. It is easiest to work with a large triangle, with the base several inches long.
Step 1: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle at yourself, then dive under the cable and up inside the triangle. Lean on the yarn and swing right back the way you came, bringing the scoop of yarn with you. In other words, retrace your path, ending in the position you began (starting position).
Step 2: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle up and over the yarn, then down behind it to bring a scoop of yarn back to starting position. This is essentially a yarn-over.
Have a look: there are two stitches on the needle and two on the cable below. The first one on the cable is the slipknot. To count MCO stitches, count only the stitches on the needle. Never count the stitches on the cable below, although they will be knitted. Since the slipknot is on the cable, it is not counted.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 over and over until the required number of stitches is cast on. For an MCO of 80, repeat steps 1 and 2 until 80 sts are on the needle and 80 on the cable below.
Begin to knit:
Before continuing, check to be certain there is only one crossing of needle and cable. Place a marker on right needle. Knit the first stitch, which is the slipknot. The first 79 stitches will alternate between being mounted with the front leg first (as you are probably used to) and the back leg first. Knit into the leg that comes first. When the marker appearsbeneath your needles on the cable below, you have completed the 79 stitches, and from now on all stitches will appear mounted "normally" with the front leg first. The next stitch is formed by the double sides of the slipknot as it loops down around the cable below. Knit this stitch as if the double sides are one strand. Continue knitting until the marker reappears in between your needles, announcing that you have completed your first round.
Be clear about this before going on:
Each time the marker appears in between your needles (not on the cable below), you are at the end of a round.
Begin diagonal lace pattern:
*Yo, k6, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
Knit one round.
Repeat last two rounds 10 more times.
Lace edging:
Round 1: *[Yo, k1] 2 times, [yo, k2tog] 3 times. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: Knit.
Garter edge:
Round 1: *P1f&b, p3. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Bind off loosely.
Blocking:
The cashmere cowl will self-block as you wear it. With wear, the yarn will bloom to produce a lovely halo.
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
Turtleneck Tissue Cozy, by Stitchy McYarnpants
Materials:
16" circular needles, 1 pair each US sizes 6 and 7
1 set double-pointed needles (dpn), US size 7
Caron Simply Soft yarn, I skein each Dark Sage (A) and Autumn Red (C)
Patons Brilliant yarn, 1 skein Gold Glow (B)
Gauge: approximately 4-1/2 stitches per 1"
Note: Entire piece is worked in the round.
Using smaller needles and A, co 100. Place a marker every 25 sts (make it easier to remember where the row starts by using a different color or size marker after the last st).
Join and work 2x2 ribbing for 4 rows (setup row: k1, *p2, k2*, k1)
Switch to larger circular needles.
Work 1 row of straight knitting.
Switch to B and work 1 more row of straight knitting.
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After the last row in the chart, work 1 more row of straight knitting in Color B.
Switch to Color A, work 1 row of straight knitting.
Work 2x2 ribbing for 4 rows (as above: k1, *p2, k2*, k1).
Note: At this point, decide if more rows of ribbing are needed before beginning decreasing for the "neck." It may take 5 or 6 rows to reach the top.
The Fair Isle chart completed, Debbie Brisson works more ribbing and starts decreasing to create the turtleneck on double-pointed needles.
If the sides if the tissue box are completely covered, start decreasing.
Before every stitch marker, slip two sts as if going to k2tog, but don't actually k2tog.
Take the marker off the needle.
K the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped sts over it. Put the marker back.
Keep decreasing until it starts to get hard to maneuver the sts on the circular needle, then switch to the dpns. This will probably take 6 rows.
Decrease a total of about 12 rows. Try the sweater on the box to determine whether the opening is covering the top of the box without covering the hole at the top.
Once you're happy with the size of the opening, continue the ribbing without decreasing.
Decide how tall the turtleneck should be; 12 rows is enough to fold over but not be too bulky. Give it more or less depending on your preference.
Bind off loosely. Use a needle one size up if you are finding it difficult.
Weave in the end from the neck.
RESOURCES :
The Museum of Kitschy Stitches: A Gallery of Notorious Knits
Quirk Books, 2006
Website: www.quirkbooks.com
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
Poinsettia Wreath, by Maggie Pace
Materials (enough for 7 poinsettias):
Cascade 220 yarn: 475 yd. red (9404), 50 yd. green (9430), 15 yd. yellow (7827) (or any 100% wool or wool-blend yarn that will felt)
double-pointed needles, US size 10
yarn needle
1/4" ribbon (seven 18" lengths)
14 safety pins
18" florist wires (seven 18-gauge, to hold up flower and stem)
1 yd. 26-gauge thread wire
needle-nose pliers
12" wire wreath frame
Note: Remember that many yarns are seasonal and could be discontinued. If the specific yarn called for is not available, purchase a substitution yarn that comes closest to the specified gauge in your pattern. And be sure to make that all-important swatch to see whether the yarn works for your particular pattern.
Note on shaping:
Our poinsettia is created in four sections: a green stem and three large outside petals; a second group of large outside petals; a medium-sized group of inside petals; and a small group of inside petals. The four sections are knit and felted separately and then placed on top of one another to create the final flower. You will need seven poinsettias to make the wreath.
Create flower stem:
Using two size-10 double-pointed needles and green yarn, co 4 stitches (figure A). *K one row. Without turning work, slide stitches across needle. Pull the yarn tightly from the end of the row and repeat from *. Do this 45 times. Inc 1 st in the middle of every row over the next 5 rows (9 sts).
Note: You are still sliding stitches after every row as you increase. Break green yarn, leaving long tail.
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You are now going to work only these 3 sts; you will work them as if they are on straight needles, by turning your work after each row. Orient your work so the p side is facing. You will start out in k, even though p side is facing. This breaks the St st pattern, but it is correct. The goal is to have the k side of the petal face upward as it comes out of the I-cord tube. If necessary, break red yarn and pick up a new strand of red (it may not be necessary, depending on which stitches you slid on the holder).
Petal Group 1
First trio of outside petals:
(Use a bar increase, where you create 2 sts by knitting in the front and back of one.)
**Row 1: Knit, increasing one st at each end (5).
Row 2: Purl, increasing one st at each end (7).
Row 3: Knit, increasing one st at each end (9).
Row 4: Purl, increasing one st at each end (11).
Row 5: Knit, increasing one st at each end (13).
Rows 6-12: Work in St st.
Row 13: Knit, dec 1 st at each end (11).
Row 14: Purl.
Rows 15-20: Repeat rows 13 and 14 three times (5).
Row 21: K1, K2 tog twice (3).
Row 22: Purl.
Row 23: K 2 tog, K1 (2).
Row 24: Purl 2 tog (1). Break red yarn. Thread end back through last st and weave in end.**
Second petal:
Remove next 3 sts from the holder. Place on dpn. Orient work so p side is facing. Using a new strand of red yarn, follow pattern between **s.
Last petal:
Remove last three sts from the holder. Place on dpn. Using a new strand of red yarn, follow pattern between **s. When you are done with this first grouping of petals, weave in all ends.
Petal Group 2
Second trio of outside petals:
In red, co 9 sts on a dpn and distribute sts evenly over 3 dpns (3 per needle). Join yarn to work in rounds. Work 7 rounds. Keep last 3 sts on needle and slide the remaining 6 sts onto a holder. Orient work so p side is facing. Next, repeat instructions for Petal Group 1.
Petal Group 3
Medium petals
In red, co 9 sts on size-10 straight needles (you can use dpns if you'd like.) Use a bar increase, where you make two st by knitting in the front and back of one st.
Row 1: Working in k, inc 1, k 1, inc 1 (5). Stop! Place the remaining 6 sts on a holder. Now turn your work and continue in the pattern below.
*Row 2: P1, inc 1, p1, inc, p1 (7).
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k2, inc 1, k2 (9).
Rows 4-7: Work in St st.
Row 8: P1, p2 tog, p3, p2 tog, p1 (7).
Row 9: K2, k2 tog, k3 (6).
Rows 10-11: Work in St st.
Row 12: P1, p2 tog twice, p1 (4).
Rows 13-14: Work in St st.
Row 15: K1, k2 tog, k1 (3).
Row 16: P2 tog, p1 (2).
Row 17: K2.
Row 18: P 2 tog. Break red yarn. Thread end back through last st and weave in end.*
Second petal:
Remove 3 sts from holder.
Working in k, inc 1, k 1, inc 1 (5).
Stop! Turn work and work pattern between *s.
Third petal:
Remove last 3 sts from holder.
Working in k, inc 1, k1, inc 1 (5).
Stop! Turn work and work pattern between *s.
Weave in all ends. As you weave in the co tail, sew the first and last petal together at their bases so they form a trio of petals.
Continuing the process for making the knit poinsettia, you are now ready to begin work on the fourth and final group of petals. After this group is finished, you will prep the pieces and felt them before assembling the bloom.
Petal Group 4
Small petals:
In red, co 9 sts on size-10 straight needles (you can use a dpn if you'd like.) Use a bar increase, where you make two stitches by knitting in the front and back of one stitch.
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k 1 (4).
Stop! Place the remaining 6 sts on a holder. Now turn your work and continue in the pattern below.
*Row 2: P2, inc 1, p1 (5).
Row 3: K2, inc 1, k2 (6).
Rows 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit.
Row6: P2, p2 tog, p2 (5).
Row 7: Knit.
Rows 8: Purl.
Row 9: K1, k2 tog, k2 (4).
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: K1, k2 tog, k1 (3).
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: K2 tog, k1 (2).
Row 14: P 2 tog. Break red yarn. Thread end back through last st and weave in end.*
Second petal:
Remove 3 sts from holder.
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k 1 (4).
Stop! Turn work and work pattern between *s.
Third petal:
Remove last 3 sts from holder.
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k 1 (4).
Stop! Turn work and work pattern between #s.
Weave in all ends. As you weave in the cast-on tail, sew the first and last petal together at their bases so they form a trio of petals.
Finishing
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Warning: If you skip this important step, the I-cord will fuse to itself during felting and the wire won't thread through.
Felting and drying:
Set the washer to hot, on a heavy-duty cycle with low water. Add all four flower segments after the water begins agitating. You may have to run the flower segments through more than one cycle before they're done--but don't let them go through the spin cycle. The pieces are done if all the stitches have disappeared and they are noticeably stiff to the touch. Shrink these a lot. Once they are the desired consistency, pull them out and squeeze them in a towel. Dry all segments flat on a table.
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Thread the wire through the I-cord channel, leaving wire exposed on each end. Thread the wire through petal group 3's center. With a pair of needle-nose pliers, bend the top of the wire into a 1/2" eye-hook, making sure petal group 3 is caught in the middle of the hook. Pull the wire down so all three petal groups come together and the eye-hook is buried in the center of the flower. With a needle and red yarn, securely tack the eye-hook to petal group 3. Next, tack the eye-hook from the underside of the flower at the base of the petals to keep the wire from riding up.
Work lots of French knots all over the center of the smallest petal group, piling the knots on top of each other to give them dimension. (Alternatively, you can glue-gun yellow beads to the center.) Sew the last petal grouping to the center to complete the poinsettia.
Flip the work, so the bottom of the stem is facing you. Trim the wire so it is slightly longer than the I-cord. Make another small hook so you have a surface to sew. Bury the hook within the cord, and sew to secure.
Wiring the petals:
You're going to run some light wire through the six petals of petal groups 1 and 2 so you have more flexibility in shaping. Thread a long needle with a 10" length of 26-gauge thread wire. Place a running stitch down the center and on the underside of each petal. Make sure to use a light touch so the wire doesn't show through on the top.
Make six more poinsettias, following the same method.
Attaching flowers to wire wreath:
Evenly distribute the flowers onto the indented side of a 12" wire wreath base. Secure by weaving the green stems through the base. Play with the arrangement until you like the way it looks.
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with question.
Sampler Shrug, by Myra Wood
Materials
2 skeins of Lion Suede 85 gms. chunky weight (122 yards, 3 oz.)
needles - U.S. size 11
crochet hook size K (10.5)
tapestry needle
Finished Measurements
Before sewing sleeves: rectangle = 14" x 55" (length measures to arm width across and may need to be adjusted. This length is measured to a woman 5’4"-5’6". The finished garment will be folded in half to be half as wide.
Gauge
1.5 stitches per inch. 10 sts/12 rows- 4 inches stockinette
Designer Notes
All stitches will be very loose. Rectangle may vary in width until finished. Seaming the sleeves and finishing the edges with single crochet evens everything out.
Knitting Directions
CO 34 stitches loosely ( or even # of stitches to measure).
Starting on wrong side, garter stitch:
1. Knit across
2. Knit across
3. Knit across
4. Knit across
Simple Eyelet
5. K1, *YO, K2TOG, repeat from * across to last stitch, K1.
6. Knit across.
7-10. Repeat rows 5 and 6.
11- 14. Garter stitch (knit across all stitches).
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Double Dropped Stitch
40. *K1, YO twice * Repeat across to last stitch. K1
41. K1, drop YOs across to end. Knit last stitch. Pull piece to stretch stitches evenly.
42-49. Garter
The next lace pattern is a multiple of 4 plus 2 for 1 knit stitch at the beginning and the end. Increas or decrease on the last garter row at either end to achieve a multiple of 4+2
Filet Ribbed Lace (multiples of 4+1)
50. K1. *YO, Sl 1, K2TOG, PSSO,YO , K1. Repeat from * to last stitch. Knit last stitch.
51. Knit across.
52. K1. *YO, Sl 1, K2TOG, PSSO,YO , K1. Repeat from * to last stitch. Knit last stitch.
53. K1, Purl across to last stitch. Knit last stitch.
54-61. Repeat this pattern 2 more times for rows:
62-65. Garter
Increase or decrease stitches at the beginning or the end of the firt row to return to original stitch count.
66-70. Stockinette as follows:
Knit across RS rows.
K first stitch, Purl across to last stitch. Knit last stitch all WS rows.
71-73. Garter
Single Dropped Stitch
74. K1, YO across. K last stitch.
75. K all knit stitches and drop all YOs.
76-77. Garter
Alternating Eyelet
78. K1. *YO, K2TOG. Repeat from * across. Knit last stitch.
79. Knit across.
80. K1. * K2TOG, YO. Repeat from * across. Knit last stitch.
81. Knit across.
82-89. Repeat rows 78-81 2 more times.
90-97. Garter. Knit all stitches.
Monster Bauble
98 (RS) Knit.
99 Purl.
100-101: Knit.
102: K1, double YO across. K1 last stitch (98 stitches).
103: K the k sts and the first wrap of the YO, dropping the second wrap of the YO. (66 stitches).
104. K1. *P2TOG across to last stitch. K last stitch.
105-108 Knit across.
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115-119. Garter
Checkerboard
120. K4,P3 across to last 2 stitches. P2 last 2 stitches.
121. K2 *P4, K3 across P4 last 4 stitches.
122. P4, K3 across to last 2 stitches. K2 last 2 stitches.
123. P2 *K4, P3 across K4 last 4 stitches.
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130-132. Garter
Simple Eyelet
133. K1, *YO, K2TOG, repeat from * across to last stitch, K1.
134. Knit across.
135-136. Repeat rows 133-134.
137-138. Garter stitch (knit across all stitches).
Bind off loosely.
Finishing
Fold rectangle in half from side to side so that length remains the same and width is half as wide.
Measure 17" from each end and pin along arm edge leaving center open.
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This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
